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The yem (breast cloth) id probably the most typical item of Vietnamese women's clothing. A diamond or square-cut little bit of cloth placed diagonally with a woman's chest, form or perhaps in a V form, it is often worn for centuries by women of all classes.

Instead of a high collar, some ao dai have a very yem-like top, with two strings tired together on the nape revealing the bare shoulder. The traditional yem has become stylized as part of the modern ao dai. However, the yem hasn't gone away, it is just changed forms.

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In his 1732 book entitled "Vuong Quoc Dang Ngoai" (The Kingdom of north Vietnam), writer S. Baron noted:"The manner of weaving silk cloth is promoting here so greatly the rich as well as the poor can all wear silk clothes" These beautiful silks could possibly be found in the markets of Thang Long, available to women of all classes.

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